The Space
Located in the walkable block of Columbia Street, Sunda New Asian is at the center of downtown Detroit. The name comes from the Sunda continental shelf in Southeast Asia, a region Dec has traveled extensively.
Dec emphasizes that while all Sunda locations are part of the same family, each restaurant has their own unique identity. The interior is designed by Studio K, a Chicago-based group behind the Nobu Hotel and Maple & Ash restaurants. Inside you’ll find a blend of cross-cultural décor found across the region, with nods to Dec’s Filipino heritage sprinkled throughout.
Adorning the lighting above the sushi bar are Capiz shells, a shimmering mollusk shell found in the Philippines. Decorative cherry blossoms hang above the island bar, providing a pinkish backdrop to the selection of sakes and Japanese whiskies.
The 6,000 square-foot space has seating for more than 200 guests and includes an additional patio seating in the warmer months.
The island bar is a perfect spot for guests to have a drink and enjoy the cherry blossom decorations. // Photograph courtesy of Sunda New Asian
A Wandering Palate
Much like the décor, Sunda Detroit’s menu is a blend of multiple cultures from around Southeast Asia. The culinary team consists of Culinary Director Mike Morales, who hales from the Philippines. Head Sushi Chef Ise Matsunobu is from Tokyo.
The menu, which Hour Detroit sampled during a media preview on March 4, is divided into nine categories. Dining options range from dim-sum and signature sushi to high-end caviar service.
Standouts included the spicy tuna crispy rice, an appetizer with four crunchy one-biters. The steamed buns can be ordered with either Korean fried chicken, pork belly, or crispy eggplant. Served in a bamboo steamer, the tender pork belly almost melts in your mouth, while the pickled veggies add a hint of tang.
Both familiar dishes and lesser-known ingredients share a spotlight here with Dec’s cultural background shining through. Ube, a subtly sweet purple yam found in the Philippines, is in both cocktails and desserts. Other offerings, like the Sunda sundae — a play on the popular Filipino halo-halo dessert — are throwbacks to Dec’s childhood.
In addition to their extensive selection of sakes and wines, the beverage program is a strong point of Sunda Detroit. Botanical-forward cocktails, like the lychee simoy, made with peach and orange blossom Ketel One, elderflower liqueur, lychee, and lemon, are a staple. For a non-alcoholic option, try the Emerald. Made with coconut milk and pandan syrup, it’s a fragrant yet refreshing drink that finishes with nutty vanilla notes.
The pork belly bao buns are steamed, and served with pickled veggies on top. // Photograph courtesy of Sunda New Asian
Midwest Connection
A native of Chicago, Dec has always felt a strong connection to Detroit. Sunda Detroit is the culmination of that.
“For years, we’ve felt so much love from Michigan guests at our Chicago locations that we are excited to serve them in their own hometown” said Dec. “We see Detroit not only as a city on the rise but as a place ready to set the tone nationally. We’re proud to grow with it, contribute to it, and be inspired by it.”
While this is Dec’s first Detroit restaurant, he’s no stranger to Michigan’s art community. Dec starred in Food Roots, a documentary produced by three-time Oscar winner, Doug Blush, a Michigan native. The film centers around Dec’s journeys through his mother’s homeland in the Philippines, where he searches for his remaining relatives. The documentary is premiering this May, in celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month.
Sunda New Asian is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, from 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. For more information, visit sundanewasian.com/detroit. To find out more about Food Roots or watch the trailer, visit coactagency.com/results/foodroots.